Re-imagining local culinary traditions: The Golden Fork’s Kusksu

Some of Malta’s best loved traditional dishes are taking on an entirely different form, inspiring innovative recreations at Michelin-rated restaurants across the islands. In the second part of this four-part series on recreated traditional dishes by top rated restaurants on the island, we take a look at:

The Golden Fork’s Kusksu

Visionary young chef Letizia Vella, who is Executive Chef at Michelin-recognised The Golden Fork, describes kusksu as one of the best showcases of Maltese culinary traditions, and a refined, re-imagined version of it is currently available at her restaurant.

“This dish brings back memories close to home, given that it is a dish which my mother has been preparing for me since I was a kid. Hence I wanted to provide guests with the same experience but with a modern gastronomic twist,” she says, explaining that the base ingredients are similar to the classical recipe, including a cheeselet which is sourced from Gozo and broad beans grown in local fields.

“We decided to enhance the dish by creating a ‘fake’ yolk, utilising carrot purée and cured egg yolks. In this manner we manage to modify our ways without bypassing any core values of the dish, whilst at the same time demonstrating innovative cooking methods and techniques,” the chef continues.

Given the richness of traditional food in Malta, Letizia notes, the team strives to exhibit it to a wider audience whilst supporting locally sourced and produced ngredients. “Given that we change the menu at The Golden Fork on a seasonal basis, we have the opportunity to exhibit the great contribution that Maltese food can bring to the table. In the coming months, we shall be experimenting with other dishes and will definitely come up with more interesting twists to other Maltese dishes.”

For the first part of this series which explores Noni’s Qassata, click here

This is part of a feature that was first carried in the summer 2022 edition of Business Now magazine, the sister brand to BusinessNow.mt, produced by Content House Group